Swimming with Humpbacks in Tonga

Carra O'Neal January 21, 2020

“The sea is emotion incarnate. It loves, hates, and weeps. It defies all attempts to capture it with words and rejects all shackles. No matter what you say about it, there is always that which you can't.”

― Christopher Paolini

I find that every ocean encounter—brief, long, lovely, or frustrating—continues to defy the logic and words I so desperately want to wrap around it. Perhaps the mysteriousness of it is what keeps me coming back for more. This time around, that quest led me to Tonga to swim with humpback whales. Whales Underwater, once again, put together an unforgettable trip for my twin sister and I. I can’t thank them enough for their dedicated work and passion.

The sheer breadth of encounters and experiences we had could probably fill a book. I’ll try my best to keep it brief.

The initial draw of Tonga is probably the mom and calf pairs. The encounters we had with each pair was as different as fingerprints. Some mothers were cautious, others aloof, and still others so at ease with humans they’d nap while we looked on. Like us, the calves had their own personalities—some brave and cheeky, others stand-offish, and some just plain curious. Their attachment to their mothers was obvious and endearing. The way the calves always wanted to keep physical contact with their moms was so lovely. Although when they would rub their bellies on their mothers’ faces you could almost see that mom eye-roll in response. Being a mom myself, I couldn’t help but empathize… there’s so much touching in motherhood! But as much as we want our space sometimes, the time they need our touch is so very brief.

Then we got to experience a heat run! For those that don’t know what a heat run is, it’s where a female in heat is pursued by a group of males hoping to mate with her. She sends them on a merry chase for 24-48 hours before choosing one. I was so hoping we’d be able to see one. And yet, it still surprised me. It was not at all what I expected. A photographic challenge for sure (all those distracting blue fish!) but it was also the most spectacular nature event I’ve ever witnessed, to date. These titans swimming fast, whacking each other with tails, plowing into each other and releasing a myriad of bubbles was adrenaline inducing for sure, but also incredibly mesmerizing. Most of the time all I could think of was “you go, girl! You put those guys through hell.” Perhaps not the lasting thought I should have walked away with! ;)

For me, the most surprising of our encounters were the number of “couples” resting together. The males always following the lead of the females and much more watchful and aware of us, as if they were the bodyguards. These were our longest encounters. We’d drop in and observe them resting and sometimes talking to each other. This “pillow talk” (as Jasmine refers to it) seemed so intimate I would get a little self-conscious observing them. They’d rest for about 20 minutes and come up together for a breath, giving us a curious glance or two before descending to rest some more.

Have you ever heard a humpback laugh? Have you ever had the privilege of laughing along with one? Meet “Mikey.” Mikey provided us with one of the most unique wildlife encounters I’ve ever had. One that’s left a mark both figuratively and literally. Let me explain—it’s quite the tail (pun intended)! Mikey is a juvenile, probably around 5 years old. This was likely his first solo trip to Tonga. Freshly arrived with barnacles on his chin, he was resting on the bottom. For the boat of observers that was there before we arrived, he didn’t seem to want to wake up. But then he saw us. I watched as he opened his eyes and noticed us. He made a beeline straight for us, sizing us up. Apparently he thought we were down for some fun so he started twisting, turning, grunting and splashing us with his tail. I let out a genuine belly laugh. This whale’s joy and playfulness was contagious. He returned the sentiment, grunting louder and passing by us closer and closer with every turn. I could reach out and touch him (I didn’t, of course! Please don’t touch wildlife.).

Then that last fateful pass…

We were all lined up and he was eager to splash us with his tail again but he misjudged just how close he was, and I did too. I was on the end of our viewing line and turned just as he brought his fluke down and it landed on my back, knocking the wind out of me and rendering me immobile for a minute or so. After that, he took off like he thought he was in big trouble and I floated in the water while I waited for my breath and voice to return. I found out when I got home that I had a broken rib and a badly bruised hip bone. At the time I figured the pain was immense but not unbearable so I kept getting back in the water and I don’t regret it. It definitely slowed me down but didn’t stop me. After our fateful contact, I was a bit too cautious around the whales (can you blame me?) and wasn’t doing too much freediving. Luckily our local guides were amazing and had my back—pushing me closer so I could get a good shot when I was being too cautious and pulling me back when they weren’t sure what the whales were going to do. Wildlife can be unpredictable. But they are just as unpredictable to us as we are to them. The ocean is their world, we are just visitors. I’m so glad so many of them allowed us in their presence. I am forever grateful. And to the mischievous Mikey: I will NEVER forget you, my dear. I send you all my love, think about you daily (especially on days I still get twinges of pain), and pray you will live a long life free of ship strikes and entanglement. It never escapes my mind that this giant could have killed me but that we humans are much more likely to cause his end. If you want to know a bit more about what it’s like to get hit by a whale, I recommend watching PBS’s “Whale Detective.”

After our encounter with Mikey we came across a singer. For those that believe we are the only ones to benefit from gene-culture coevolution have never heard a humpback sing—never felt the song vibrating in their bones. Never shed a tear at it’s mournful tones or laughed at it’s high pitched squeaks. So many theories surround humpback songs. I like to believe it’s their ever-evolving culture—the way they bond as we do over the art we create—the songs, the books, the plays, the movies, the paintings, the photographs, the poetry, the food—the things that bring us together and also showcase our individual uniqueness.

I’m reminded of a song lyric from an, admittedly melodramatic song, but one I still love, nonetheless: “How rare and beautiful it truly is, that we exist.” Life goes in cycles. It comes and goes. All the factors that have to fall in place for us to exist are incredible. Life is a gift—one that isn’t given to everyone. Cherish yours and cherish others for we can not exist without the lives of others. Our lives are intrinsically tied to every other life on this planet.

Swimming with whales always seems to lead me back to the WHY of everything. What’s the meaning of life? Why are we here? We will inevitably be chasing the answer to that question forever. I envy people with faith. For some they have the confidence to let God handle that question and lead them to the answer. Me, on the other hand, watch our world in absolute amazement and all I can manage to do is have faith that I’ll be always chasing that answer. We, as a species, will always be chasing it. Because what if we found it? Then what? It’s the driving question to our evolution. It’s how we carry on. With each new thing we learn, with each new misstep, with everything we get wrong, we move forward. For me that way forward lies in chasing some small understanding of the world we live in and striking a balance with it. Our salvation, our continued existence and evolution depend on finding that balance. So seek out new things. Connect with strange beings. Float weightless in the abyss, walk among giants, or soar high above the ground. Find connection. Find balance. Fall in love with the world over and over again. Now more than ever. Try. Fail. Get back up. Make it count. The rest of us are right there with you.

Orca saddle patches are unique to each individual Orca

Norway Part III: The Orcas

Carra O'Neal January 8, 2019

The photographer in me feels I have to start with a side note about the photography. Especially the underwater photos. So here it goes… many of these images are pretty much rubbish. But these images aren’t about perfection. I learned to let that go on this trip. They are here to illustrate a story. They are images that taught me something. They are images that inspire me to do better, to keep going, to keep shooting, to keep learning, to keep creating, to keep growing, to keep discovering, to keep loving, and to keep sharing. If there’s any place on Earth that can help you let go of perfection, it’s the arctic waters of northern Norway in winter. And that’s really what this is all about anyway.

The iconic Orca dorsal fin slices through the water, catching the golden arctic light of winter

Four male Orcas dive down into the depths

I sometimes dream about Orcas. I think many people do. I always wondered what it was that I found so compelling about them. Was it their beauty, their grace? Their intelligence? Their skills? I’m not even sure I can pin it down after spending 5 days in their presence. But I think I’m closer…

I think it’s all of the things I listed above and so much more. They have soul and personality. Their social skills resemble ours. They have a strong sense of family. They have obvious likes and dislikes. You can see the bonds they have with their families. And every encounter, no matter how much we worked to make it happen, you got the distinct feeling that you had nothing to do with it. The Orcas simply allowed it. Or they didn’t. You didn’t factor into it at all. You just showed up. And I’m extremely grateful for each and every second they allowed us in their presence.

They say all life came from the sea. President John F. Kennedy made a speech at a sailing competition once and his words really resonated with me: “We have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch it, we are going back from whence we came.” Orcas came from the sea and then they went back to it. They were once land animals, almost like wolves. Perhaps that’s where I find my deepest connection to them. I get it. I get why they might have ventured back to the sea. Even though I can’t live there, I spend as much time there as I can. Perhaps I’m a tiny bit jealous of their ability to evolve to the ocean (yes, I know it took millions of years). I struggle like a fish out of water in the ocean but they’ve adapted so perfectly it’s like they never left. It’s truly beautiful.

One of the most incredible moments is when an Orca looks you straight in the eye!

Here on the Pacific coast of the US and Canada we have two types of Orcas, Residents and Transients. Residents eat fish and Transients eat other marine mammals. You may have recently heard of the critically endangered Southern Resident Orcas. I believe there are only 75 left. They feed mostly on Salmon in the Pacific Northwest and salmon numbers are dropping significantly and the Orca population is starving. Moving open net fish farms (completely or mostly) out of the Salish Sea and breaching lower river damns to let the Salmon spawn is really the only way to save them.

The Norwegian Orcas are mostly fish eaters but they have been observed eating a seal or two in the summer months. They are the only population that switches between the two. Scientists believe the population is around 3,000 individuals.

Orcas are extremely intelligent so they’ve learned how to steal fish from fishing nets. This can be dangerous for them since they can either get entangled in the nets or, because they are so close to the fishing vessels, they can get hit by boats.

A pod of Orca swim full speed across the fjord to take advantage of a fishing boat

The pod was porpoising with joy as they raced across the fjord

Normally, Orcas will locate a school of herring and corral it into a bait ball near the surface. They will take turns either hypnotizing the fish by flipping over to show their white bellies or they will tail slap them to stun them. The most amazing thing to observe is how graceful and almost gentle they are when they grab each fish, eating only one at a time.

An Orca heads straight for the bait ball

Exposing their white undersides to the bait ball

Gracefully flicking a fish into his mouth

Orcas are extremely social and family oriented. They are matriarchal (maybe another reason I’m so drawn to them!?). Male Orcas stay with their mothers their entire lives, only venturing off to mate for a day or two before they return to their pod. Female Orcas also stay with their families until the pod gets too big, at which point the oldest daughter will break off with her offspring and start a new pod. Orcas, along with belugas, narwhals and pilot whales are the only other animals besides humans to live past their childbearing years. Typically, highly social animals benefit from non-childbearing “adult supervision.” Older females will know where and how to hunt most efficiently. They will also share up to 90% of the food they catch with their family, keeping them strong and well fed. Orcas also take care of their disabled members. They essentially swim at the pace of the slowest member and hunt for those members unable to do so. We also observed a male Orca sleeping on the surface. The rest of his pod didn’t seem too sleepy. In fact, they were hunting. As we watched them we noticed that each member of the pod would take turns going back to check on the sleepy male before returning to hunting. More Orcas came to check on him when the boats started swarming around him. It was an incredible behavior to observe. You could feel the love and the teamwork.

Probably my closest encounter with this sassy female Orca

Orcas are very auditory animals. They use echolocation to locate prey and they communicate constantly via clicks and squeals. It’s one of the coolest things to hear underwater. Each population of Orca has their own unique languages. They are very sensitive to sound and responded to every little squeal I uttered. They love music, too.

On the flip side, they are very sensitive to noise pollution and boat traffic. At times we would observe a pod being followed by boats, showing sings of frustration. Males will show the frustration of the pod by slapping their tails on the surface. They’d also disappear for minutes at a time and pop up in another direction, trying to avoid the boats. So while some pods were friendly and curious, other pods were standoffish or just in a “leave me alone” kind of mood. Much like humans!

Babies! Oh man, they’re cute. They are also much more curious of humans than their parents. We observed one in his/her mom’s slip stream and when he/she saw us he/she flipped on his/her back and swam upside down the whole way past us. Cheeky little one! You could clearly tell each Orca had their own unique personality and mood. Some were stand-offish. Some were playful. Some were curious. Some were all business. And some were the obvious protectors.

Sadly, only 50% of Orca babies survive. Being apex predators, the Orca consume a lot of toxins from everything lower down on the food chain. Many of these calves cannot survive their mother’s toxic milk. Keeping our oceans clear of plastics and chemicals can help alleviate this problem. As we learned in Finding Nemo, all drains lead to the sea. Please be conscious of what you throw down your drain or throw on the sidewalk that can be swept into storm drains and washed out to sea.

This young Orca was interested in my squeals and swam by me three times!

Some Orcas are cautious, like this one, swimming close enough to get a look but not too close to be in danger (or good photographing range!)

Time to hold onto your socks. Here’s where it’s about to get a little preachy. I can’t help it. Some things just have to be said. But along with that, please understand that I try to leave all judgement on the table. I’m not out to blame anyone for anything. I’m not asking for perfection, either. I’m simply pointing a few things out to get you to think about your actions. Change will come, but only if we are aware of the problem. So here it goes…

You can not, I repeat, CAN NOT spend time in the wild with these animals and not look at photos of captive Orcas and want to cry and throw up at the same time (or at least I can’t). Of all of the encounters we had, we only saw the Orcas and the bottom of the ocean once. (Picture below). Imagine swimming in a wide open ocean with your closest family and then you’re put into the equivalent of solitary confinement at Alcatraz. That’s essentially what these tanks are for Orcas. Then take a look at the below picture with the ocean bottom and then take a look at the concrete bottoms of a tank at SeaWorld. Orcas have only killed humans in captivity. There is no recorded death of a human by an Orca in the wild. Many scientists believe the deaths were mental breakdowns. Ok, I think you all see where I’m going here…

Slightly out of focus but you can see the bottom!

But, like I said, perfection is not the goal here. I’ll admit it, I’ve been to SeaWorld when I was a kid. Even more recently in 2010 my husband and I did a swim with dolphins in Mexico at a seaside dolphin “sanctuary.” It was included in our resort package. The sanctuary was enclosed and concrete. I have to admit, even though at the time I wasn’t totally against the practice, the whole thing made me so upset I told my husband I never wanted to do it again. Of course, I’m sure it didn’t help that we had encountered dolphins in the wild while scuba diving just the day before. Afterward we went to swim with sting rays in a “sanctuary.” This time it was a open pen in the ocean. Fish swam in and out. The bottom was the actual ocean floor. Many of the rays were recovering from injuries. I breathed so much better there and actually enjoyed myself. At the time I didn’t know why I felt such a huge difference. Now it’s obvious. At the very least, we need to move our captive cetaceans to open pen sanctuaries. So please, don’t support these marine parks and aquariums that house cetaceans if you can. Support local whale watching companies and see them in the wild or, if you can afford it, find an operator that will let you snorkel with them. The experience is unbelievably better for both you and the animals. There’s nothing like seeing an animal in the wild!

And on that note, I’ll stop babbling and let you enjoy some photos of just that!

Some males don’t have perfectly straight dorsal fins. Some are even flopped over (no, it’s not just something that happens in captivity, but it’s rare in the wild)

These abnormalities in the dorsal fin make identification of these individuals much easier!

Had to include a few pictures of the most beautiful sunrise I think I’ve ever seen…

It was our last day on the water and what a send off!

The drive by on video! What a cute little baby!

That’s a wrap, folks! Thanks for following along. Please feel free to share or comment below if you have any questions. Also, if you’re interested in some more info about Orcas (and Southern Residents in particular) check out the Ted Ed video below.

Thanks you lovely people!

Carra

Norway Part I: My Creative Journey

Carra O'Neal December 12, 2018

A Word of Caution: Life isn’t the good photographs, or what we share on social media, or what we see in magazines. Its everything in between. It’s hard work, its messy at times, there’s fear and self-doubt, and then occasionally its blissful, almost spiritual. I’ve carefully chosen these images. I’ve carefully edited them to elicit the beauty, emotion and magic I felt on this trip. They don’t show my fears - the self-doubt, or the regrets, or the technical failures, or the fear that the trip wouldn’t line up with my expectations. They don’t show the hard work or the frozen (and injured!) fingers. They don’t show the weariness or fatigue or obsession over photographic perfection (or the complete lack of it!). They don’t show the challenging technical difficulties (the low light, the cold water, the bubbles and fish scales, the new equipment). They don’t show the people behind the scenes working their butts off so I could come home with these images (of which I am eternally grateful!). They deserve a mention, at the very least. It helps to build a more accurate picture of the whole journey. But that’s not what these images are ultimately for. I want these images to awe and inspire, not just because I want you to fall in love with these creatures and this place like I have, but I want you to know that despite the messy in between, this trip exceeded all expectations. The messy has truly begun to fade in memory. All that’s bubbled up to the top is the beauty, the magic. I hope these images portray that. Oh, and thanks for following along!

After throwing down random thoughts about this trip on paper over the weeks I’ve been home, I ultimately decided to split this blog post up into 3 parts. This is part one.

This particular blog post is an interesting one to start with. It’s more abstract than Part 2 (The Trip) and Part 3 (The Orcas). It’s my creative and emotional journey. I want to share some of my triumphs and failures from an artist’s standpoint. I want to cover the quest. The whole “artist” experience. This is how I ended up in Norway photographing Orcas. So here it goes…

Diving down into the depths of the Norwegian fjords.

“Some say the creative life is in ideas, some say it is in doing. It seems in most instances to be in a simple being. It is not virtuosity, although that is very fine in itself. It is the love of something, having so much love for something - whether a person, a word, an image, an idea, the land, or humanity - that all that can be done with the overflow is to create. It is not a matter of wanting to, not a singular act of will; one solely must.” - Women who Run with the Wolves, Clarissa Pinkola Estes, Ph.D.

The ocean calls me (yes, like Moana. And yes, I get misty every time I watch that movie. And yes, the call is isn’t out there, it’s inside me!) but I can’t stay there forever. I wasn’t made to be there (as one of my dive buddies puts it, the more gear you need to go somewhere, the less you were built for that environment and the less likely you were meant to be there… drysuit diving is kind of like going to space). And yet I can’t stop going. But perhaps part of its draw for me is that I can’t stay. Therefore, it keeps its magic, its mystery. And then my photographs begin to play an important role - they sustain that magic when I’m topside. It’s a piece of the mystery I can share with the world (or just my small sphere). You don’t want to go underwater? No problem, I’ll happily bring it up here to you. Then you can take it, like a small puzzle piece, and fit it into your view of the world, the universe, and your place in it. As artists we try to create images and stories that help us make sense of, or find a place for, us. And as it says above, its something we feel we must do.

A car’s headlights and taillights light up the road as they drive under an incredible green sky.

All that is well and good, but nothing goes that smoothly. We are human after all! I’m always seeking that elusive “perfect” photograph. That’s the journey part of being an artist that I didn’t quite understand when I was younger. I always thought my goals would have a destination - a point at which I could claim, “I’m successful!!” But that point is always changing, always moving (and thank God for that!). Art is inherently subjective. Even defining something as “art” is subjective. So therefore I’ve always struggled with questions like, “is this art?” or “am I really an artist or professional photographer?” The easiest answer I’ve come up with is, “yes, if you believe it.” After all, at some point, you come to the conclusion that, “I love my creative life more than I love cooperating with my own oppression.” (Women who Run with the Wolves) In other words, the “one solely must” part of living a creative life bubbles up to the top and it can’t be ignored. After all, what am I supposed to do with all this love for the ocean and its inhabitants besides capture images of them?

So where does this all fit in with my trip, you ask? Well, about two to three years ago I started seeing some really amazing images of Orcas. And then I started dreaming about them. I’d wake up with a shit eating grin on my face! The dreams were always about being in the water with them (of course!). It took the tiniest bit of digging to find out that people ran trips to swim with Orcas. But two/three years ago I had a small baby I was still nursing. My baby needed me. We even had plans for a larger family. Risky to take a trip like this pregnant (if we were to be so blessed). Annoying to take a trip like this while nursing (ewww 9 days of pumping!). The trip was costly, etc. etc. I made a lot of excuses (valid and otherwise). Then I woke up late in the summer after another Orca dream and I turned to my husband and told him I had to go, with or without him, no matter what other small things cropped up. It was time. I needed a new creative challenge. I needed a new experience. I felt stuck. And after 3 years of focusing mostly on raising a small human, I needed space to grow myself. I felt I had to go. And bless his heart, my husband agreed. (I have the best husband ever! But we can discuss that another time…) And so I went.

I went for the experience. I went to take photographs. I went to give myself space. I went to think. I went to enjoy. I went to create. I went to learn. I came back with so much more!

I came back with new friends. I came back with new editing and photographic techniques and tips. I came back refreshed. I came back with a sense that I’m on the right path. I came back with new paths I want to discover and old paths I want to re-discover. But don’t worry, the doubt, the fear, it’s all still there… it’s just sharing it’s time in the sun now, for a brief moment anyway.

Orcas and birds feast on herring as fisherman scramble to catch the fish before they disappear.

The incredible colors of a November sunrise above the arctic circle!

“Creativity is the unique and defining trait of our species; and its ultimate goal, self-understanding: What we are, how we came to be, and what destiny, if any, will determine our future historical trajectory. What, then, is creativity? It is the innate quest for originality. The driving force is humanity’s instinctive love of novelty - the discovery of new entities and processes, the solving of old challenges and disclosure of new ones, the aesthetic surprise of unanticipated facts and theories, the pleasure of new faces, the thrill of new worlds. We judge creativity by the magnitude of the emotional response it evokes. We follow it inward, toward the greatest depths of our shared minds, and outward, to imagine reality across the universe. Goals achieved lead to further goals, and the quest never ends.” - The Origins of Creativity, Edward O. Wilson

I think a lot about originality. Probably more than most people. I’m an identical twin. I share the same DNA as another person. Sometimes I laugh at people’s attempts at originality. Why are they trying so hard? True originality is something I have trouble grasping, for I am a copy of someone else. And then I remember science - genetics. The world, it’s ecosystems, have shaped the two of us into two different people with unique journeys. We are two different pieces in this jigsaw puzzle of the world. We fit into two unique spots. Perhaps they are side by side and barely distinguishable, but they are two different pieces nonetheless. And they are two different pieces with two different quests for novelty, discovery, and meaning. I hope you all find your quests. And I hope if you ever feel your quest has hit a dead end, that you’ll uproot yourself, no matter how frightening that may be... and find yourself on a boat in the middle of the arctic winter searching for new friends and magical creatures and space particles that cause brilliant colors to light up the sky! And if it’s not there, I hope it’s somewhere else; somewhere you’re just dying to find yourself. And don’t wait. GO. NOW.

Love always,

Carra

Circular fisheye image of the arctic sky.

A mama and her baby swim close by so they can check out those crazy creatures we call “humans.”

It’s dark down there! Perhaps its that massive cloud of herring… yum!

That’s it for Part I folks! Stay tuned for Part II next week. Please feel free to ask any questions or leave comments below! <3

Traveling with a Toddler: Lake George Edition

Carra O'Neal August 15, 2017

As promised (albeit a little late), a blog post about traveling across the country with my two year old (and flying one way without the husband!) and kicking it for two weeks (solo parenting for one of those weeks) with my little dude.

Honestly, it didn't come without its challenges but I have to admit that it was one of my favorite trips so far. As you'll hopefully see from the pictures below, the kids had a fantastic time! My stained clothes and exhaustion are testament!

A side note: No we aren't traveling all the time even though social media makes it look like that. I'm just a busy working Mom so my photos tend to go up wayyyy after because I can never find sufficient time to sort through them right away. So for reference, this trip was taken July 1-13. Ya know, a month ago now...

Checking out the planes at the airport. iPhone photo.

I'll be the first to admit that two is a tough age to travel with. Lee is going through an "independent" stage where he insists (sometimes super loudly) that he get his way. Along with that comes the "I'm just going to randomly run away from you" phase. So how'd the flights go? Surprisingly well. I set my expectations about as low as they could go. I've seen kids throwing tantrums for up to 30 minutes on planes before. I expected at least one if not two or three of those. Luckily, we got away without any major tantrums. I still can't believe it. In the moment, every loud protestation seemed like the end of the world to me but looking back I have to laugh at myself and say "damn, woman, you have an easy kid."

First class luxury. This kid is unbelievably lucky and super spoiled when it comes to travel... unfortunately we spend many nights away from Daddy for this kind of status to be obtained. Thanks for the upgrades, Daddy! iPhone photo

Alright, so my mantra when I travel is "the journey cannot last forever." And insert whatever word in place of "journey" that you need to... like "tantrum." I also like to replace most of it with "he cannot stay awake forever." And while these help, they are also true. My other method of coping is giving up all "rules" I previously held at home and letting the kid get his way almost all of the time. Now, I put my foot down when it comes to respecting other people and being kind but rules on screen time and snack time do not apply when on an aircraft. He can watch as much Paw Patrol and eat whatever he wants on the airplane. Although I say he can eat whatever he wants, I really only bring his favorite healthy snacks... popcorn, cheese sticks and fruit. Lots of fruit is key, actually. I have a theory that he would be a worse kid if he didn't poop. A lot of times when traveling you can get a bit backed up. Not the case for this kid. He has a knack for pooping when we take off. Almost. Every. Single. Time. Super inconvenient for Mommy (yes, I changed his diaper on the seat in first class because storms wouldn't allow anyone to get out of their seat for most of the flight and I wasn't about to deal with the fallout from a diaper rash... plus, it stunk!). You do what you have to do. Most everyone I've ever encountered on a plane flight understands this. Oh, and bring dog poop bags. They are super handy to put dirty clothes in, if there's a blowout, or you're forced to change a diaper on a seat...

Living a life of luxury. #somuchlegroom iPhone photo

Now I'll give you just a few specifics on how the flight by myself with him went. We arrived at the airport with plenty of time so I didn't have to worry about that. Lugging our luggage and him to the counter was tough. I stuck him in his hiking backpack and lugged a roller bag, camera bag, his car seat and his diaper bag from the rental car garage to the terminal. I'm superwoman. I should have gotten a cart but I'm cheap...

This kid wouldn't wear pants... even in first class... oh well, not worth the fight! iPhone photo

Check in and security went smoothly. My little runner didn't allow me to get coffee or food but I had a strong feeling that would be the case so I got some food on the plane. At the gate I had to give up on preventing him from climbing on the window sill (aka the vents for the terminal) so he could see the planes. After he was up there he was super happy and we made it to boarding with no major issues. Waiting in line to board was a bit of an issue. He kept running off because he wanted to go down the "jetway tunnel." Luckily people in line thought it was amusing and saved my spot while I ran after him a total of 3 times. Once on board he was content with his iPad. We have shows and movies and games for him. He has a short attention span so he flits between all three. Then he pooped as we were taking off. Changed his diaper in the seat... I was repulsed but no one else seemed to be. The first leg to Chicago was pretty short so he was happy with his iPad and snacks the whole time.

Nap time on flight number two. iPhone photo

Transitioning to flight number two wasn't bad, behavior wise, but I had trouble keeping up with him and convincing him he couldn't ride on all the passenger carts. On top of that, there was a lot of construction equipment because of renovations that he was interested in... dragging him away tended to lead to a few loud shouts of disapproval. But we made it on the second plane and he fell asleep immediately. I got 1 hour and 20 minutes to eat lunch and re-charge. I credit a bigger seat for this. He was able to readjust mid-nap without waking up. This flight was around 4 hours. The last hour and a half he was super antsy. There were the occasional shouts of disapproval (like when I told him he couldn't crawl under the seat in front of us...) but after dozens of trips walking/running up and down the aisles, he was mostly well behaved. We arrived tired but in one piece.

Overall, not an experience I'd jump into every day but one that is worth it for all the fun we had at the lake. Please enjoy the photos of our lake adventures below, and let me know in the comments section if you have any questions!

Our trip overlapped with my cousin Shane and his family. Here's Lee with his cousins Logan and Parker and his second cousins Emmie and Molly! iPhone photo

Logan jumping into the lake with her Dad.

Playing naked on the dock at sunset with water guns. Best 4th of July ever!

Cousins! They love each other, I promise...

Exactly how I'd like to spend every day.

Miss Logan's hair catching the sunset light.

Lee and the Schraders heading off into the sunset.

Happy Fourth of July!! Lee liked these way better than the "scary, loud" fireworks.

Happiness is looking for frogs with Daddy.

Reading stories from little Echo Bay library box with the neighborhood kids.

The perils of carrying a two year old on your shoulders..

Matt took my camera so I could be in a few photos. The kids decided to take a break in the middle of the road. Thank goodness there aren't many cars...

"Carry me, Mama!" OK! I won't be able to do it long! — "Carry me, Mama!" OK! I won't be able to do it long!

This girl is trouble! Clever, strong, beautiful and kind. And her hair!

These were weeds growing next to our driveway.

There's a slight resemblence to Lee at that age... don't ya think?

Trying to shoot the water in his mouth...

Back to the frog pond! (something we did almost every day)

Finally got the nerve up to touch the frog and it natrually jumped away from him...

When I photograph kids I always try to get down on their level. After a few minutes at the frog pond I had fallen into the pond up to mid-calf and both knees were muddy. Worth it. I love these photos! The higher angle photos work best for me when the kids are looking up. For me, it gives the image a hopeful feeling - looking to the future!

As a photographer, I'm always chasing light and story. Both seem to allude me. It's like chasing down my two year old... always one step behind and when I catch up, it's a fight. Worth every second. The learning curve both as a photographer and a parent (albeit on different levels) is super steep. Keep climbing, parents and artists! There's got to be a fair number of great views on the way to the top! :)

Our beloved Echo Bay, where I (arguably) became the person I am today thanks to many adventures and awesome friends and family.

We got back from a trip to Hagerman Lake in Michigan a week ago now. I'll try to get a post up about that before I leave for Norway on Friday. Follow me on Instagram if you want to see some photos from both those trips before I get the blog posts up! I'm going kid free for this one and I'll be battling some rain on some pretty remote islands. Should be interesting... might get a lot of interesting shots or maybe none at all. We shall see!

2012 Lake Powell Time Lapse

Carra O'Neal May 8, 2017

Check out a really old time lapse I did of the night sky at Lake Powell back in 2012!

I've been organizing our server and clearing out space on my hard drives to improve Lightroom's performance. I came across this time lapse that I never finished back in 2012. I had shot it and created the video but never graded it. Why, you say? Because back then I shot my images really, really flat with no saturation (see the straight out of the camera image below). The idea was that I would have more room to color grade it exactly the way I wanted it. Which is true. But it's super time consuming! So I never finished... until now! And even now it's not the exact way I envisioned it. But I've learned a valuable lesson... yes, shooting flat gives you more control over the final image but, to use a very famous quote, "AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!" While certain projects in the future may require more precise color grading, I do not use this method anymore. I like the images to come out of my camera a little closer to a final product. Saves me time, even if I have to deal with a little frustration over the final image. After all, time is money!

I hope to do some more time lapse photography since I haven't done any since this! Maybe this summer I'll find some time... :)

Heading back to the helicopter in Milford Sound.

Traveling with a Toddler: New Zealand Edition

Carra O'Neal March 28, 2017

If you have small children and you love to travel, just do it! I know it seems scary but it's never, ever as bad as you think it will be. Plus, you get all these amazing pictures of your kid having a great time and discovering new things. Look, I know I'm biased and partial to my own kid, but you have to admit, the pictures below show some really great memories! And if you're thinking, "well he won't remember it, he's too young!" that's probably true but he'll always have these pictures that you can revisit and talk to him about. We've even been back for two weeks now and I'm still hearing "go to Queenstown, Mommy?" "Go to Christchurch, Mommy?" "Sheep haircut, Mommy?" "Helicopter, Mommy?" "Go on airplane again, Mommy?" When I tell him we'll take another airplane trip to Lake George in the summer he goes "Airplane again this summer, Mommy?" Seriously, you may dread a long flight but if your kid is anything like my kid, he loves the plane and I secretly suspect it was his favorite part of the trip. Below I'll explain why!

I suspect most of you want to know about the flight, more than anything. I know it was my biggest nightmare before we left. Turns out I way over-prepared for it and really didn't need as much as I brought. Lee had a backpack for his diapers, extra clothes (at least 2 pairs... between food stains and potential blowouts, you'll use them!), and toys. (Backpack pictured above on Matt). We wanted to keep it to just one carry-on, which we did. But it was majorly heavy so if I had to do it again, I'd leave a few things at home.

Throwing rocks with Grandma into a stream while waiting on our lunch in Wanaka. Any time there was an opportunity to throw rocks in a body of water, we made sure to stop and do it!

I bought a bunch of new books and a few new toys for the flight. The books were good but in reality I only needed the thin, light ones I bought (set of 5, 3 of which are pictured below). I could have left the thick cardboard books at home although when he was smaller he loved the lift the flap ones. I also bought a ton of sticker books but the biggest hit was the airplane sticker book (pictured below). It was relevant to what we were doing, had stickers, and he even asked for it as a bedtime story! It's still his favorite now that we're home! As far as toys go, I bought him some small trucks (set of 6, a few pictured below), something I noticed that he really liked at his cousin's house. I also added 2 paw patrol pups since that's his current favorite show. I did not let him play with or even see these before we left. So once he started getting cranky I could pull out the new stuff and he'd be thrilled! Worked quite well. I also brought along the mess free coloring books and markers (pictured below). This wasn't as big a hit since he's used them before but it gave him something different to do when he wasn't feeling anything else. For the next flight, these will probably be all the toys and books I'll bring.

Lee's favorite things for the plane ride!

Ok, so now you're probably thinking there's no way my 1-2 year old would be occupied for 12 1/2 hours with just that! And I'd say, yes, you're right. Our other go-to was the iPad. Not only did we find some really great age-appropriate games that he loved but we downloaded Moana and every time we needed him to sleep we'd let him watch it and he'd nod off. A word of caution, though. Lee was watching the iPad on a windy road in the car and he puked everywhere! He gets slightly car sick on really windy roads when reading or watching a screen (something we discovered when we went to Mammoth last year) so we should have kept the iPad out of his hands in the car but we didn't... lesson learned... again! After that we'd rotate who sat in the back to entertain him. Before we left we also started playing "I Spy" with him on our walks. Since it was something he was familiar with we could sometimes distract him with this game in the car. The other car game he loved the most? Taking off his socks and throwing them at Grandma like he was playing baseball. She'd throw them back and he was entertained for a crazy amount of time! Amazing what simple things can keep a kid occupied!

Another tip for the plane: let your kids walk the aisles as much as they want (when it's safe). Rotate parents (and hopefully grandparents) if you have them. If the kid is happy, no one will care that he's running up and down the aisles! In fact, Lee gets a lot of high-fives and we get to talk to a lot of new people.

Finally, my last piece of advice for the plane would be SNACKS! Bring lots and bring favorites. I wasn't about to argue with him about eating vegetables but I did pack lots of fresh fruit. I wanted to make sure he had the fiber, to avoid tummy troubles, but it also had to be something I wouldn't have to force into him. Keep in mind they will confiscate any fresh fruit that's left over when you arrive, but that wasn't a big deal for us. We just wanted to make sure he had more than enough for the plane.

Discovering new critters in the grass on our hike.

So, you must be wondering how the flights actually went. Well, the flights were the easy part! Lee had only 2 major meltdowns. One could have been avoided with better planning and the other one was completely out of our hands.

Lee slept 7 1/2 hours on the first flight and woke up relatively happy. He napped the whole 2 hours on the connecting flight and was in good spirits. Not his usual amount of sleep but enough to keep him from falling apart. He was pretty uncomfortable sleeping on our laps (and so were we!) on the plane so if you have the budget I'd recommend getting your little one a seat of his/her own and bringing along their car seat. I bet Lee would have slept more soundly. But I totally understand that travel is crazy expensive so not paying for a seat is ideal. Lee still slept pretty good, so I can't complain. His first meltdown came during the last hour of our 5 1/2 hour car trip directly after we landed. We had decided to land in Christchurch and immediately drive to Queenstown. He slept a few hours in the car but couldn't get comfortable the last hour. I felt horrible for him. With better planning we could have flown into Queenstown and avoided the meltdown. But we also got to see some pretty epic scenery driving (although that's not much of consolation for a mother thinking she's horrible for putting her kid through all this just so she could see the world and not leave her kid behind to do so!).

Secret to a smooth trip around the world: grandparents! (Other friends or family will also work... just someone else to distract your kid makes a world of difference and allows you to take a breather every once in a while!)

And now the time change... we are lucky on the West Coast because the time difference is only 3 hours. This amount of time is not that big of a deal to adjust to. We got a little screwed on the way back because Daylight Saving Time made the difference 4 hours but it wasn't too bad. My philosophy with the time differences is: let the kids sleep whenever they want, including little cat naps. They will slowly adjust on their own and if they sleep when they're tired you can avoid meltdowns and tantrums. I've found that Lee wanted to be awake when it was light out and asleep when it was dark. In fact he slept through the night every night (I couldn't believe it!). He didn't sleep his normal 10-11 hours, though. It was more like 9-91/2 but with all the distractions during the day it didn't make a difference in his temperament. And if it ain't broke, don't fix it! I would suggest that if you're having them sleep in the car or strollers almost every day, take a day every three days or so and let them sleep at the hotel or rental to get some good quality sleep. You'll know when they're hitting their limit of so-so naps and they really need a good one.

That brings me to accommodations. Get an Airbnb or a VRBO. It's been such a lifesaver for us when we travel. We've been able to afford places with a separate room for Lee (which we could not afford if we stayed at a hotel) and they usually include a kitchen and some even have washers and dryers! Not eating out every meal made it much easier to avoid public meltdowns. Especially at the end of the day when we pushed him too hard. It's a lot easier to let your over-tired kid run around a rented apartment while eating dinner than forcing him to sit still and eat at a restaurant. It's also cheaper to make a grocery store run and eat in every once in a while, especially since your group is much larger now that you have a kid or two!

View of Queenstown at sunrise from our Airbnb rental! Epic 3 bedroom for an insanely reasonable price.

Now you're probably wondering about the unavoidable meltdown. That came in the customs line when we returned to the U.S. Lee didn't sleep great on the return flight so he was tired. He kept it together on the plane and was a little angel. Once we got off he naturally wanted to run around. Unlike other countries you are shepherded immediately into the customs and immigration lines after exiting the plane (no time to let off steam or even go to the bathroom). So we had to contain our overly tired toddler. Not good. The other problem? You aren't allowed to use electronic devices in line... so that meant, no iPad. The last problem? There were only 3 customs officers for 2 international flights! We waited in line for almost an hour before a customs officer let us go ahead because of our screaming child. We endured screaming, hitting and kicking for a good 45 minutes. So, be prepared. There are just some times when a public tantrum is unavoidable. In this instance, everyone felt the way Lee was acting and no one gave us dirty looks... just sympathy looks. Everyone was pissed. So I found some solace in that fact!

Checking out the jet boat while heading around Lake Wanaka on the Outlet track. A super simple walk with ample opportunities for rock throwing (just watch out for mountain bikers!).

Another little tidbit. We've traveled to a lot of places with high altitudes. If you're staying somewhere at a higher altitude than your kid is used to and you can't figure out why your kid isn't sleeping, try a humidifier or turn on the shower for a few minutes. We found the dryness of the higher altitudes kept Lee up because he was uncomfortable. Took us 2 sleepless nights in Mammoth last year to realize this! Don't make the same mistake we did!

Last but not least, you know your kid better than anyone! You know their limits and, even if you're in denial about them like I am, you know your own. Listen to your instincts. You've got this!

Now onto our adventures! Enough words, already, c'mon Carra!

Sticks and rocks, the only toys you need out here!

Heading out across Lake Manapouri on our way to Doubtful Sound. About that pacifier... anything that brings comfort to your kid, bring it and give it to them without restrictions. You want your kid to be able to soothe himself/herself whenever possi… — Heading out across Lake Manapouri on our way to Doubtful Sound. About that pacifier... anything that brings comfort to your kid, bring it and give it to them without restrictions. You want your kid to be able to soothe himself/herself whenever possible. Even if that means you have to get looks about your 2 year old still being attached to his pacifier. Rather that than the public meltdown!

Sitting with Grandpa in the Captain's seat.

Chilly but beautiful ride across Lake Manapouri.

Checking out the view of Doubtful Sound with Grandpa. No smiles here, but still having a good time!

Enjoying the view from the boat in Doubtful Sound.

Attempting nap time with Daddy on the boat. It failed. Fell asleep on the bus ride back over the pass to Manapouri. Late nap but still worked out.

Helicopter ride! Lee was so excited about his headphones!

Landing in Mildford Sound. Couldn't have been a more stunning helicopter ride!

Boat ride in Milford Sound. Lots of boat rides on this trip since hiking and kayaking weren't that realistic with a toddler. But it's a great way to see lots of things in New Zealand!

Inside the boat, enjoying the view and a little lunch.

Helicopter ride back from Milford Sound. Detour stop on top of a glacier overlooking the Tasman sea.

Nap time was a no-go on the boat so Lee fell asleep as soon as the helicopter took off again. Slept through the glacier landing and got a solid nap on the way back. Missed a lot of sights but we've got the pictures to show him!

Hiking out to the Blue Pools with Grandma in tow.

Checking out the blue pools from up above.

Throwing rocks into the blue pools. Seriously, Lee's favorite activity.

Back to the car on Daddy's back! Couldn't survive any of these outdoor adventures without our Deuter Air Comfort backpack!

On our way to Christchurch from Queenstown we took the detour up the west coast. Stopped for lunch at a salmon farm in the middle of nowhere. Spent $1 on fish food so Lee could feed the fish. Best $1 ever spent!

On the jungle trail out to a viewpoint of Fox Glacier.

Made it to Hokitika for the sunset and some fish and chips. Lee's contimplating life in this one.

Pohatu Penguin Safari. Stopped along the way to take a picture with a view of Akarora on the Banks Penninsula.

Feeding some pet sheep at the Flea Bay farm where the penguin sanctuary is.

Penguins? Sheep? No, I'm just interested in the garden cat, Mom!

Back out to the Banks Peninsula the next day for a sheep shearing and dog herding demonstration!

Can't visit New Zealand without going to a sheep farm.

The farm had a little sheep bike. A huge hit with Lee!

For more on the specifics of our adventures, stay tuned for the next few blog posts. Please leave any comments or questions if you've got some! Happy to share my experiences and advice! Good luck to you all and may you have safe and happy travels!

A Los Gatos Family Shoot

Carra O'Neal January 9, 2017

Right before New Years I met up with an old friend and her boys to take some photos. I met these guys 8 years ago when they were kids. Now they are practically adults! It's hard to believe! I had such a great time. And boy, what a different experience it is photographing grown ups! Thanks for asking me to be your photographer, Shirley!

A Muir Woods Wedding

Carra O'Neal January 4, 2017

What a unique and wonderful wedding this was! Beautifully executed in just two weeks, this wedding took place in Muir Woods at dusk on the Winter Solstice with just a few guests as witnesses. The fading light proved to be a bit of a photographic challenge for me but resulted in truly unique and beautiful images! Thank you to the newlyweds for including me!

Almost got swept away! Picture on Muir Beach. Incredible sunset that evening.

I love Chiana's expression and her beautiful blue eyes in this one!

Same as the first photo but in black and white. I think I find this so compelling in black and white because the pattern of the light on the water almost matches the lace pattern on her dress.

Marisa & Kyle's Surprise Wedding!

Carra O'Neal December 18, 2016

Here's a quick sneak peak of some of my initial favorites.

Marisa put this small ceremony together in a week! I can't believe it! It was just perfect. Exactly the small and intimate ceremony she always wanted. I had such a wonderful time shooting this wedding. The whole evening was laid back and despite the cold it was full of so much joy and love!

Dodging Raindrops!

Carra O'Neal December 9, 2016

This time of year brings some seriously unpredictable weather. After moving this shoot earlier in the day to avoid rain we still got caught in some! And all this after rescheduling the first time because the entire park was closed last weekend! But these guys kept their spirits up and, as it turns out, umbrellas are fun to play with!

Kaia was an absolute joy to photograph! Her sly smiles just crack me up. What a personality!

I probably shouldn't admit this but this photo is one of my all time favorites. It's moments like this that make my job so awesome and fulfilling!

Kaia didn't want to smile for me at first but there was no shortage of smiles for Mama!

Alana was the biggest trooper of them all! Didn't seem to notice the cold weather or the rain. Even fell asleep on her Mama for most of the shoot!

I think you're in trouble with this one Jaime and Ken!

Despite multiple scheduling roadblocks and foul weather I'd say we pulled off a successful shoot! FINALLY! :)

Bonderson Family Sneak Peek!

Carra O'Neal December 7, 2016

Boy was it a cold morning. But WOW, what a great backdrop at the Bonderosa!

Chase is so fun to photograph. He's always having a blast!

Can't beat the green hills of California in the winter!

Day Family Sneak Peek!

Carra O'Neal November 30, 2016

We shot these right in the Day's backyard! What a blast we had!

My husband and kid tagged along on this shoot. Somehow Matt convinced Lee to give Gabrielle a kiss. We could be in trouble with these two!!

Williams Family Sneak Peek!

Carra O'Neal November 29, 2016

It was a cold and very wet morning but we managed to get some smiles and have a little fun!

What a sweet smile! And those eyes! Can't get over them!

Nothing like a swing to get a kid (or an adult) to smile!

Love this in black and white but with Sadie's blue eyes it looks great in color too!

So many more to get through. Back to editing for me!

New York City Transplants

Carra O'Neal November 23, 2016

Yesterday I got the pleasure of photographing a family that just recently moved out to California from NYC! It was wonderful to chat about making the transition and adjusting to life in California. After all, I made that move 8 years ago (can't believe it's been that long!). Here's a sneak peak of some of their photos!

Only 6 weeks old. What a trooper she was!

All Smiles!

Carra O'Neal November 21, 2016

Due to the rainy weekend we had I was forced to re-schedule a few shoots. I did end up squeezing one in. I was insanely worried the kids would be miserable because of the cold, wind and occasional rain but boy, was I wrong! These kids were all smiles! I didn't even managed to go through all the photos and found these three gems already! I'm in love with them!

The kids wanted to climb a tree so I said "why not?"

Seriously, JJ looks way too grown up in this picture!

'Tis the Season for Family Portraits!

Carra O'Neal November 17, 2016

Last weekend I had full day of shoots trying to catch those perfect moments for Holiday cards. Below are a few of my favorite works-in-progress.

It's always a huge challenge to capture each and every member of a young family smiling and happy all at the same time. While I tend to come close, I don't always get it. So, I like to provide my clients with pictures of their children smiling even if it's not with the whole family around. I will go all over a park attempting to find that one place or activity that will make them smile!

And sometimes you think you nailed it but then you realize your niece has a tree growing out of her head...

Meanwhile... same day, same park, different family, different view and lighting...

What a tiring but fun day! Lots of lessons learned. More shoots this weekend if only the weather would hold up...

Oregon Part I

Carra O'Neal October 31, 2016

A few weeks ago I headed to Bend, OR to film a video on Photography. Specifically, a video on printing in the wet dark room with Cibachrome. Stay tuned over the next month or so for that video! In the meantime, check out some photos I took while hiking in Smith Rock State Park on my half day off from filming.

Smith Rock State Park - view from the parking lot.

I couldn't stop staring at the texture of the clouds and rays of light. Did my best to capture it.

Colors and textures of a desert landscape.

The Evolution of a Sunset

Carra O'Neal October 13, 2016

So here's the evolution of a sunset on Hagerman Lake a few weeks ago. It was absolutely stunning! I hope you get that sense from the photos.

Like someone took a paintbrush to the sky

While the changing light can be the bane of my existence while filming video, it sure is a blessing when I'm photographing.

Below is my "experimental" shot. I lowered the shutter speed and decided to see how it would look when the boat was moving. I like that the water is blurry and there is some detail in the sky but in hindsight I think I should have lowered the shutter speed even more. That way I may have gotten a more painterly/sense of motion image. But who knows! What do you think?

Hot Air Ballooning over Napa Valley

Carra O'Neal September 28, 2016

This past weekend we went hot air ballooning over Napa. It was gorgeous and relaxing (no kid!). Unfortunately for the photographer in me we were the last balloon to go up so we missed the incredible sunrise light. At least we got some great views!

It's really fun to play tourist in your own area. You gain a whole new perspective on the place where you live. If you love to travel and you can't afford to go too far, try something new right in your backyard!

Introduction to My Blog

Carra O'Neal September 20, 2016

Hello to everyone reading this. Welcome to my website! Thank you for checking it out.

In the future I will dedicate more time to blog posts but for now let me tell you a little about what to expect on this blog.

My interests are extremely varied and so are my projects. I will be posting on this blog about jobs with clients, comedy, writing, underwater photography and traveling. I might also post tips for traveling with kids, tips for taking photos or video, editing tips, or equipment reviews. If I find any helpful videos or other blogs, I will be sharing those as well.

I am an "expert" in photography and videography only insofar as people pay me to do it and I love doing it. As with all crafts, my skills and opinions are always in flux. So, that being said, please take any advice I give with a grain of salt.

Thanks for checking out the site! Hope to see you back here again soon.

xoxo Carra